FRSky Taranis Beginners Support Group
02-05-2020, 06:19 AM
#226
See the other group, where I answered in detail about correcting using Companion.
If you want to try without, but this is untested:
- Upload the models to Companion. Save them as a file with the word "bad" in it. You can leave this open, to use as reference while you work on the radio.
- Unhook the radio.
- In the radio, delete all the mixer lines that are showing the problem when viewed in Companion.
- Exit out of the model, back to the main screen.
- Go back in to the mixer, and add back the correct lines.
- Exit back out to the main screen. Turn off the radio.
- NOW close the list of models showing in Companion - no need to save, as you did that in the first step.
- Hook radio up to the computer, and upload to Companion.
- If the doubling is no longer happening, you have fixed it. (stop here, and jump to below if not fixed)
- Save what is now currently in Companion to a file for backup.
- Close Companion, unhook your radio.
- Delete the "bad" file.
If it still is there, then no choice but to go the other route, by fixing it in Companion, and then downloading to the radio.
- Proceed on from step 9 above.
- You can fix what needs fixing in the file currently on the screen.
- Download to your radio. Close Companion. Do NOT again save this current file that is on screen.
- Unhook and verify on the radio.
- If it looks good on the radio, hook it back up and upload to Companion.
- Verify in Companion that the problem is gone.
- If gone, now save this file as a good back up.
- Close everything, unhook the radio.
- Find and delete the "bad" file saved to your computer.
Last edited by tedsander; 02-05-2020 at 06:27 AM.
02-06-2020, 01:57 PM
#228
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Hi Deni,
Welcome to the Taranis beginners thread.
What's your story?
Got some beginners problems like most of us here? Lets hear about them.
Don't be shy; the natives are friendly here.
Not like some places.............
Jim.
Welcome to the Taranis beginners thread.
What's your story?
Got some beginners problems like most of us here? Lets hear about them.
Don't be shy; the natives are friendly here.
Not like some places.............
Jim.
Last edited by Jim.Thompson; 02-06-2020 at 07:19 PM.
02-07-2020, 05:20 PM
#229
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OpenTx "Sticky".
I have read this description about the term "Sticky" as it applied to OpenTx several times. (description from http://rcdiy.ca/opentx-transmitter-f...ical-switches/ attached).
However, the meaning and application of it is still obscure to me.
Questions:
1. Is this something that the average user can completely ignore?
2. If not, can someone help this beginner to understand it please?
Jim.
I have read this description about the term "Sticky" as it applied to OpenTx several times. (description from http://rcdiy.ca/opentx-transmitter-f...ical-switches/ attached).
However, the meaning and application of it is still obscure to me.
Questions:
1. Is this something that the average user can completely ignore?
2. If not, can someone help this beginner to understand it please?
Jim.
02-07-2020, 10:15 PM
#230
The file seems to be broken - it's just a mash of code. But if it was a cut-n-paste from RCDYI, and you are asking about the use of a Logical Switch called a "sticky"...
While definitely not a "beginner" function, it can be very, very useful. It essentially is a toggle switch, driven by the logic "If A is true, turn on the switch. If B is true, turn off the switch".
One example, that I use in almost all my planes:
I usually end up using the one 2 position switch (SF on the Taranis) for something else. But I really want a second, to use for "arming" the motor. I try to always use a specific 3 position switch for a specific function on all my models. But not every model uses every switch. So sometimes SB might be unused, or SD, or some other. I could use one of those to arm the motor, but then it would be different for each plane. Hard to remember when I switch models. But I almost never use the momentary switch (SH) for anything. But, it is momentary, so doesn't stay on.....so I use it to drive a "sticky" logical switch.
When setting it up, the "V1" condition is what turns the logical switch on (makes it "true"). The "V2" is what turns it off (makes it "false").
So, a very simple one for arming would be:
L01 Sticky SH↓ SH↓
On startup, L01 is off. The first pull of SH makes V1 "true", so L01 turns on and stays on, even when I release SH. The second pull of SH makes V2 "true", and so tells L01 to turn off. So the switch "sticks" in whatever state it was last told to be in. (I've oversimplified things, so forgive if it initially doesn't make sense, as I'm emphasising how to make use of it).
I can then use L01 as a switch over in mixing on my throttle channel in the line:
Replace I3:Thr Weight(-100%) Switch(L01) Offset(-100%)
- which forces the throttle to stay closed, no matter what the stick does, if L01 is "on", and the stick works normally if L01 is "off".
This setup works on both electric, gas and glow engines.
So you can use similar anywhere you want to turn on something - just like having many more 2 pos. switches.
You'll see more complex examples, like where the sticky is not allowed to turn on unless you hold both sticks in a certain position for a certain amount of time - to be extra safe and not ever accidentally turn on the motor of an electric plane.
You may see complex examples using a long series of logical switches that feed off of each other, to end up controlling either V1 or V2.
I use one such chain (using a sticky) to determine when my plane has taken off, and then increment a counter, so I know how many flights I did that day.
On one plane, I have another complex chain to power my "autoflaps" ("If flaps are down, and throttle goes high and stays high, after 2 seconds slowly raise them") so I don't have to remember to raise flaps when aborting a landing. At the heart, it is the "sticky" that determines whether flaps are down or up.
Here's a link to a short thread (and a long document) about all the mysteries of logical switches, and goes into depth on how they actually work:
Logical Switch Tutorial
While definitely not a "beginner" function, it can be very, very useful. It essentially is a toggle switch, driven by the logic "If A is true, turn on the switch. If B is true, turn off the switch".
One example, that I use in almost all my planes:
I usually end up using the one 2 position switch (SF on the Taranis) for something else. But I really want a second, to use for "arming" the motor. I try to always use a specific 3 position switch for a specific function on all my models. But not every model uses every switch. So sometimes SB might be unused, or SD, or some other. I could use one of those to arm the motor, but then it would be different for each plane. Hard to remember when I switch models. But I almost never use the momentary switch (SH) for anything. But, it is momentary, so doesn't stay on.....so I use it to drive a "sticky" logical switch.
When setting it up, the "V1" condition is what turns the logical switch on (makes it "true"). The "V2" is what turns it off (makes it "false").
So, a very simple one for arming would be:
L01 Sticky SH↓ SH↓
On startup, L01 is off. The first pull of SH makes V1 "true", so L01 turns on and stays on, even when I release SH. The second pull of SH makes V2 "true", and so tells L01 to turn off. So the switch "sticks" in whatever state it was last told to be in. (I've oversimplified things, so forgive if it initially doesn't make sense, as I'm emphasising how to make use of it).
I can then use L01 as a switch over in mixing on my throttle channel in the line:
Replace I3:Thr Weight(-100%) Switch(L01) Offset(-100%)
- which forces the throttle to stay closed, no matter what the stick does, if L01 is "on", and the stick works normally if L01 is "off".
This setup works on both electric, gas and glow engines.
So you can use similar anywhere you want to turn on something - just like having many more 2 pos. switches.
You'll see more complex examples, like where the sticky is not allowed to turn on unless you hold both sticks in a certain position for a certain amount of time - to be extra safe and not ever accidentally turn on the motor of an electric plane.
You may see complex examples using a long series of logical switches that feed off of each other, to end up controlling either V1 or V2.
I use one such chain (using a sticky) to determine when my plane has taken off, and then increment a counter, so I know how many flights I did that day.
On one plane, I have another complex chain to power my "autoflaps" ("If flaps are down, and throttle goes high and stays high, after 2 seconds slowly raise them") so I don't have to remember to raise flaps when aborting a landing. At the heart, it is the "sticky" that determines whether flaps are down or up.
Here's a link to a short thread (and a long document) about all the mysteries of logical switches, and goes into depth on how they actually work:
Logical Switch Tutorial
02-09-2020, 06:50 AM
#231
The file seems to be broken - it's just a mash of code. But if it was a cut-n-paste from RCDYI, and you are asking about the use of a Logical Switch called a "sticky"...
While definitely not a "beginner" function, it can be very, very useful. It essentially is a toggle switch, driven by the logic "If A is true, turn on the switch. If B is true, turn off the switch".
One example, that I use in almost all my planes:
I usually end up using the one 2 position switch (SF on the Taranis) for something else. But I really want a second, to use for "arming" the motor. I try to always use a specific 3 position switch for a specific function on all my models. But not every model uses every switch. So sometimes SB might be unused, or SD, or some other. I could use one of those to arm the motor, but then it would be different for each plane. Hard to remember when I switch models. But I almost never use the momentary switch (SH) for anything. But, it is momentary, so doesn't stay on.....so I use it to drive a "sticky" logical switch.
When setting it up, the "V1" condition is what turns the logical switch on (makes it "true"). The "V2" is what turns it off (makes it "false").
So, a very simple one for arming would be:
L01 Sticky SH↓ SH↓
On startup, L01 is off. The first pull of SH makes V1 "true", so L01 turns on and stays on, even when I release SH. The second pull of SH makes V2 "true", and so tells L01 to turn off. So the switch "sticks" in whatever state it was last told to be in. (I've oversimplified things, so forgive if it initially doesn't make sense, as I'm emphasising how to make use of it).
I can then use L01 as a switch over in mixing on my throttle channel in the line:
Replace I3:Thr Weight(-100%) Switch(!L01) Offset(-100%)
- which forces the throttle to stay closed, no matter what the stick does, if L01 is "on", and the stick works normally if L01 is "off".
This setup works on both electric, gas and glow engines.
So you can use similar anywhere you want to turn on something - just like having many more 2 pos. switches.
You'll see more complex examples, like where the sticky is not allowed to turn on unless you hold both sticks in a certain position for a certain amount of time - to be extra safe and not ever accidentally turn on the motor of an electric plane.
You may see complex examples using a long series of logical switches that feed off of each other, to end up controlling either V1 or V2.
I use one such chain (using a sticky) to determine when my plane has taken off, and then increment a counter, so I know how many flights I did that day.
On one plane, I have another complex chain to power my "autoflaps" ("If flaps are down, and throttle goes high and stays high, after 2 seconds slowly raise them") so I don't have to remember to raise flaps when aborting a landing. At the heart, it is the "sticky" that determines whether flaps are down or up.
Here's a link to a short thread (and a long document) about all the mysteries of logical switches, and goes into depth on how they actually work:
Logical Switch Tutorial
While definitely not a "beginner" function, it can be very, very useful. It essentially is a toggle switch, driven by the logic "If A is true, turn on the switch. If B is true, turn off the switch".
One example, that I use in almost all my planes:
I usually end up using the one 2 position switch (SF on the Taranis) for something else. But I really want a second, to use for "arming" the motor. I try to always use a specific 3 position switch for a specific function on all my models. But not every model uses every switch. So sometimes SB might be unused, or SD, or some other. I could use one of those to arm the motor, but then it would be different for each plane. Hard to remember when I switch models. But I almost never use the momentary switch (SH) for anything. But, it is momentary, so doesn't stay on.....so I use it to drive a "sticky" logical switch.
When setting it up, the "V1" condition is what turns the logical switch on (makes it "true"). The "V2" is what turns it off (makes it "false").
So, a very simple one for arming would be:
L01 Sticky SH↓ SH↓
On startup, L01 is off. The first pull of SH makes V1 "true", so L01 turns on and stays on, even when I release SH. The second pull of SH makes V2 "true", and so tells L01 to turn off. So the switch "sticks" in whatever state it was last told to be in. (I've oversimplified things, so forgive if it initially doesn't make sense, as I'm emphasising how to make use of it).
I can then use L01 as a switch over in mixing on my throttle channel in the line:
Replace I3:Thr Weight(-100%) Switch(!L01) Offset(-100%)
- which forces the throttle to stay closed, no matter what the stick does, if L01 is "on", and the stick works normally if L01 is "off".
This setup works on both electric, gas and glow engines.
So you can use similar anywhere you want to turn on something - just like having many more 2 pos. switches.
You'll see more complex examples, like where the sticky is not allowed to turn on unless you hold both sticks in a certain position for a certain amount of time - to be extra safe and not ever accidentally turn on the motor of an electric plane.
You may see complex examples using a long series of logical switches that feed off of each other, to end up controlling either V1 or V2.
I use one such chain (using a sticky) to determine when my plane has taken off, and then increment a counter, so I know how many flights I did that day.
On one plane, I have another complex chain to power my "autoflaps" ("If flaps are down, and throttle goes high and stays high, after 2 seconds slowly raise them") so I don't have to remember to raise flaps when aborting a landing. At the heart, it is the "sticky" that determines whether flaps are down or up.
Here's a link to a short thread (and a long document) about all the mysteries of logical switches, and goes into depth on how they actually work:
Logical Switch Tutorial
(later edit - oops! I mistyped the mixing example above. The switch name (L01) should have had the "not" symbol (!L01), so if L01 was NOT "on", the throttle wouldn't work. Only when the "sticky" is "on", activated by the first pull of SH would the throttle stick work like normal. Then pull SH again to force the throttle to be fully closed.)
02-10-2020, 06:06 AM
#233
A quick note to beginners following along - the above example uses what appears to be a moderately complicated mix to disable the throttle stick. You'll see other examples where a switch (L01 in the example, but it could be any) instead is used to invoke an "Override Channel" Special Function. It would appear to be simpler, and yet still forces the throttle to be all the way closed, despite stick position. The bad side to using "Overrides" is that they have no safety to prevent the servo from turning too far. So if your servo, in outputs, has been set to say +/- 70% to prevent too much travel, and Override function is 100%, it will force it past those limits. Possibly damaging the servo, or pulling lots of current as it is jammed against a stop. You can take care to adjust the Override to not do that. But you have to remember to readjust if you make changes elsewhere in the setup. By having the mixer do it, you are assured you can never exceed the safety limit established in Outputs....
02-13-2020, 11:41 PM
#234
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bellingen NSW Australia
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Fixed!!
..................................................
If it still is there, then no choice but to go the other route, by fixing it in Companion, and then downloading to the radio.
If it still is there, then no choice but to go the other route, by fixing it in Companion, and then downloading to the radio.
- Proceed on from step 9 above.
- You can fix what needs fixing in the file currently on the screen.
- Download to your radio. Close Companion. Do NOT again save this current file that is on screen.
- Unhook and verify on the radio.
- If it looks good on the radio, hook it back up and upload to Companion.
- Verify in Companion that the problem is gone.
- If gone, now save this file as a good back up.
- Close everything, unhook the radio.
- Find and delete the "bad" file saved to your computer.
And furthermore, I was bold enough to write all my model files from Companion back to the transmitter without losing anything.
That's a first for me.
Jim.
02-16-2020, 02:24 PM
#235
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Lost command ? The line in not there anymore?
New at this just getting my feet wet after 30 years. Now 70 and retired.
Xmitter is Tranis 2019
Recv Is X8R
Gps and Vario
The first time I set this up it worked fine. A command in the radio setup said discover new sensors OK and it did. Everything worked great!
Then I noticed my receiver was numbered 00 and the instructions said not to do a 00 so I changed the number to 02 and a rebind.
Great but the discover new sensor line is gone ???????
WATSUP WITH THAT?
Gary
K3SJX
Xmitter is Tranis 2019
Recv Is X8R
Gps and Vario
The first time I set this up it worked fine. A command in the radio setup said discover new sensors OK and it did. Everything worked great!
Then I noticed my receiver was numbered 00 and the instructions said not to do a 00 so I changed the number to 02 and a rebind.
Great but the discover new sensor line is gone ???????
WATSUP WITH THAT?
Gary
K3SJX
02-16-2020, 06:36 PM
#238
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I was able to figure out how to employ my air brakes in to a mode that would act as ailerons by modulating them 35% to kill the lift on the inside wing. If the air brake was down it would lift it or if the air brake was up it would lower it on the outside wing and bring it higher on the inside wing acting as an aileron. All set up then this happened. If I have to reflash the xmitter I hope i can save the model and re load it after the flash
Model is E Flite Mysyique
Someday a pix4
Gary
Model is E Flite Mysyique
Someday a pix4
Gary
Last edited by Hair-trigger; 02-16-2020 at 06:43 PM.
02-16-2020, 08:55 PM
#239
I was able to figure out how to employ my air brakes in to a mode that would act as ailerons by modulating them 35% to kill the lift on the inside wing. If the air brake was down it would lift it or if the air brake was up it would lower it on the outside wing and bring it higher on the inside wing acting as an aileron. All set up then this happened. If I have to reflash the xmitter I hope i can save the model and re load it after the flash
Model is E Flite Mysyique
Someday a pix4
Gary
Model is E Flite Mysyique
Someday a pix4
Gary
For this problem, you should repost on this forum: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...cussion-Thread
At least one of the developers, and several really high level users are very active, and would likely be able to give advice.
2.3.x version has had a few issues, mostly with a few advanced features, and with some of the Horus radios. The Taranis line has been solid. There are a few telemetry bugs, but nothing like you describe previously reported. It would be a HUGE deal, so most likely a resolvable "glitch" in your system.
If you are new to Companion, please advise. I'd be glad to lend a hand in getting you through the basics of setup and doing the upload/save.
Ted
Last edited by tedsander; 02-16-2020 at 08:58 PM.
03-22-2020, 10:04 AM
#240
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I hope I am doing this correctly. - New to this group and I am hoping that someone can help. I sail RC Sailboats so I do not need a bunch of extra functions. Really a 4 channel radio is enough. BUT... Well my story starts by my attending a regatta and one of the skippers had a Frsky x-lite transmitter that he was using. Looked real interesting and he was telling me that with OpenTx, and the antenna he was using, he could make it work with almost anyone's receiver. As I always take a backup when I sail, this sounded like a great option. So I purchased a x-lite and also a RX8R Pro receiver. (Was suggested as I wanted 2 antennas and a way to see receiver battery voltage.) I have installed Open TX Companion version 2.2.4 and have walked through what I thought might be a basic setup. I did make one change by making switch SB set the limits of 50, 75 and 100 to the servo travel. I have the radio set on mode 2 and RTEA and am using T & E as the channels for my sheets (think throttle) and rudder. Hooked everything up to servos and ... The throttle servo moves from the completely down position to midway then stops. The rudder only moves when I go left. It stops when I get to the center point of the throw. I then went into the setup and removed the switch. Same result. Does anyone know what I might look for? I am sure I am missing something basic. Also I tried this with Hitec, Futaba and an Align servo. Any additional information that you might need I would be glad to provide.
Call me “bit off more than I can chew”.
Call me “bit off more than I can chew”.
03-22-2020, 07:48 PM
#242
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I am not being sarcastic here when I write:
"When all else fails, read the instructions!"
The "rub" is that the instructions are voluminous, arcane and spread over numerous posts and websites with little actual comprehensive written literature etc.
And that, in turn, is not meant as a slight against the many developers and authors; It is a fact of digital life.
Great outcome, well done!
Thanks for posting.
Jim.
Last edited by Jim.Thompson; 03-22-2020 at 07:50 PM.
04-01-2020, 08:51 PM
#243
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Normal throttle set up?
Is it normal to set up the throttle in the outputs page with offset @ 100 (or -100) to obtain full movement of the servo?
I seem to get myself confused every time I go to set up a throttle, especially in the field.
Apologies for the basic question.
Jim.
I seem to get myself confused every time I go to set up a throttle, especially in the field.
Apologies for the basic question.
Jim.
04-02-2020, 06:05 AM
#244
Not normally needed. Throttle can be a challenge. This is where electrics have a huge advantage - they usually just work with using the most basic setup.
With the most basic setup (Input = 100%, normal trim, Mixer=100%, Outputs=+/- 100) with the stick at the bottom and trim centered, you get the furthest the servo can move (it hits the limit set in outputs). Moving trim lever down does nothing additional. Moving the trim up from center, however does start to move the servo in the other direction. Same happens at the top end, in reverse (you can't use trim to get a little more throttle, but the trim will reduce it).
Ticking the "idle trim only" box changes that. The top end stick goes as far as the output will let it. Trim has no effect at all in that stick position. But, moving the stick all the way down, with trim centered, the servo doesn't quite get to the full extent defined in outputs. This leaves room for the trim lever to add or subtract, to adjust the idle up or down.
So: tick the box. Then adjust your output max so that with the stick full up, the carb is fully open. Move the stick and the trim all the way down. Adjust the output min so the carb is completely closed. This position, for most engines, will result in killing them. (Although I have some gas engines that refuse to die, so an alternative kill switch has to be used for the ignition).
If you've been living a charmed life, some trim setting at low stick will result in a reasonable carb opening for starting, and you can use the trim to get the perfect low idle. When done flying, move the stick and the trim all the way down to kill the engine (or just use low stick and your kill switch, if you have one).
The challenging bits:
1. Servo reversing. Use the "INV" option in Outputs, if needed. This is where I get the most balled up - between +/- in the inputs, mixer, the min/max settings, and the "INV" it is real easy to lose track of which positive and negative changes what.
2. "Lopsided" output min and max. I try to keep the + and - numbers sort of in the same range. Having -150% one way, and +5% the other would be an illustration. That gives 150+5 or 155% of total range. Change the pushrod length to get it closer to the ideal of +/- 77.5% in this example, but don't be too concerned, -85 and +70 is much better, and would work fine too. Getting the numbers closer to each other helps avoid an excessive amount of non-linear motion introduced by the transmitter.
3. Mismatch between throttle arm and servo arm lengths. Many times the throttle arm is very short, so pretty small servo movements change the throttle a lot. One wants the best resolution by using most of the servo movement, so there can be a lot of fiddling with arm lengths. I've at times had to make new, or extensions, for the carb arm, as sometimes the required servo arm is impossibly short. An indication of that would be your output range would be very small - for example, -20 to +5.
4. Linearity not caused by the TX - engine rpm doesn't track with the carb opening. And servo rotation doesn't produce a linear output, either. If the initial setup just needs moderate adjustment, then using a curve for the input will get the stick position to produce the desired rpm's at different settings.
I've started to adjust linkage so with the stick all the way up, and the carb all the way open, the servo arm is placed pointing forward, almost in line (but not quite) with the centerline of the aircraft. This would then be "max" in outputs. Then the min would be whatever it takes to pull the throttle arm all the way closed. The two non-linear things (carb opening and servo rotation) sort of cancel each other out. Emphasis on the "sort of". And then I fine tune with a curve, if used at all.
5. Not enough trim, typically max trim might give an idle that is still too low. Now things get interesting!
And you thought the answer was going to be short.....
Hope you all are not being hit too hard by Covid. So far, my state is very low. Still, we're on stay-at-home. No flying for me. But my daughter is in Brooklyn NY, right in the belly of the beast, but staying safe.
Ted
With the most basic setup (Input = 100%, normal trim, Mixer=100%, Outputs=+/- 100) with the stick at the bottom and trim centered, you get the furthest the servo can move (it hits the limit set in outputs). Moving trim lever down does nothing additional. Moving the trim up from center, however does start to move the servo in the other direction. Same happens at the top end, in reverse (you can't use trim to get a little more throttle, but the trim will reduce it).
Ticking the "idle trim only" box changes that. The top end stick goes as far as the output will let it. Trim has no effect at all in that stick position. But, moving the stick all the way down, with trim centered, the servo doesn't quite get to the full extent defined in outputs. This leaves room for the trim lever to add or subtract, to adjust the idle up or down.
So: tick the box. Then adjust your output max so that with the stick full up, the carb is fully open. Move the stick and the trim all the way down. Adjust the output min so the carb is completely closed. This position, for most engines, will result in killing them. (Although I have some gas engines that refuse to die, so an alternative kill switch has to be used for the ignition).
If you've been living a charmed life, some trim setting at low stick will result in a reasonable carb opening for starting, and you can use the trim to get the perfect low idle. When done flying, move the stick and the trim all the way down to kill the engine (or just use low stick and your kill switch, if you have one).
The challenging bits:
1. Servo reversing. Use the "INV" option in Outputs, if needed. This is where I get the most balled up - between +/- in the inputs, mixer, the min/max settings, and the "INV" it is real easy to lose track of which positive and negative changes what.
2. "Lopsided" output min and max. I try to keep the + and - numbers sort of in the same range. Having -150% one way, and +5% the other would be an illustration. That gives 150+5 or 155% of total range. Change the pushrod length to get it closer to the ideal of +/- 77.5% in this example, but don't be too concerned, -85 and +70 is much better, and would work fine too. Getting the numbers closer to each other helps avoid an excessive amount of non-linear motion introduced by the transmitter.
3. Mismatch between throttle arm and servo arm lengths. Many times the throttle arm is very short, so pretty small servo movements change the throttle a lot. One wants the best resolution by using most of the servo movement, so there can be a lot of fiddling with arm lengths. I've at times had to make new, or extensions, for the carb arm, as sometimes the required servo arm is impossibly short. An indication of that would be your output range would be very small - for example, -20 to +5.
4. Linearity not caused by the TX - engine rpm doesn't track with the carb opening. And servo rotation doesn't produce a linear output, either. If the initial setup just needs moderate adjustment, then using a curve for the input will get the stick position to produce the desired rpm's at different settings.
I've started to adjust linkage so with the stick all the way up, and the carb all the way open, the servo arm is placed pointing forward, almost in line (but not quite) with the centerline of the aircraft. This would then be "max" in outputs. Then the min would be whatever it takes to pull the throttle arm all the way closed. The two non-linear things (carb opening and servo rotation) sort of cancel each other out. Emphasis on the "sort of". And then I fine tune with a curve, if used at all.
5. Not enough trim, typically max trim might give an idle that is still too low. Now things get interesting!
a) If you have a seperate kill switch, play with changing the output min to give an acceptable trim range. If no kill switch, do the same and consider using the "evil" Special Function Override as one, but since it is an override, fine tune the percent to just close the carb completely. Using it blindly could force the servo to move way too far past the limit set in the output, damaging the servo.
b) Perhaps experiment with having the trim portion of the servo movement happen closer to where the servo arm is at 90 degrees to the servo - this is where the greatest amount of linear change happens, effectively increasing the total amount of trim available. But, this has to be balanced with what effect it has on the main stick induced movement.
c) Or, we move beyond the scope of this note, and think about setting the throttle up to not use trim directly at all...and address the issue by substituting a line in mixing that uses the trim lever as a source (since we can then fine tune how much authority it has).....but that gets complicated, especially when trying to emulate the "idle trim only" check box.
To loop back - I haven't encountered a situation yet where I need to adjust the offset for throttle, and very rarely, if ever, need to think about weight. Things are pretty well taken care of by adjusting the output min and max. Note too that servo center doesn't really enter into the above at all, either.b) Perhaps experiment with having the trim portion of the servo movement happen closer to where the servo arm is at 90 degrees to the servo - this is where the greatest amount of linear change happens, effectively increasing the total amount of trim available. But, this has to be balanced with what effect it has on the main stick induced movement.
c) Or, we move beyond the scope of this note, and think about setting the throttle up to not use trim directly at all...and address the issue by substituting a line in mixing that uses the trim lever as a source (since we can then fine tune how much authority it has).....but that gets complicated, especially when trying to emulate the "idle trim only" check box.
And you thought the answer was going to be short.....
Hope you all are not being hit too hard by Covid. So far, my state is very low. Still, we're on stay-at-home. No flying for me. But my daughter is in Brooklyn NY, right in the belly of the beast, but staying safe.
Ted
Last edited by tedsander; 04-02-2020 at 06:13 AM.
04-14-2020, 12:38 AM
#246
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ramsgate Kent, UNITED KINGDOM
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Hi all
Can anyone tell me where the models are stored the Taranisas mine has passed away due to water damege its not switching on.
Are they on the sim card as I was hoping to get a replacement and just drop it in.
Thanks in advance Gary.
Can anyone tell me where the models are stored the Taranisas mine has passed away due to water damege its not switching on.
Are they on the sim card as I was hoping to get a replacement and just drop it in.
Thanks in advance Gary.
04-14-2020, 07:56 PM
#247
I believe (but don't own, so can't be trusted) that the Horus models do save to the SD card.
I saw a recent note from one of the developers that having all radios save to the card was in the works, but no timeline on what release of OpenTX it may be queued up for.
It may be worth it to send it in for repair, rather than DIY. The service center may be able to get the main board to power up on the bench, and copy off the models from there.
Aloft Hobbies was very fast and surprisingly inexpensive when one of mine needed service.
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strider123 (04-14-2020)
04-20-2020, 06:08 PM
#248
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Texas
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Transmitter - Frsky x-lite and now have a I RangeX iRX4 lite module on the back of it. I have it talking to my Spektrum MR3000 receivers, FlySky receiver and a Frsky Rx8r Pro receiver. I was wondering if anyone on here knew if it would be able to talk to a Graupner Hott GR-12L receiver. I heard that there are brands/receivers that do not show on the instructions but can work.
05-05-2020, 03:42 AM
#249
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I am looking for a new radio. I have been out of the hobby for about 15 years and need a new radio. I was very interested in FrSky, but after scanning this thread I am a little put off. I am not a programmer nor do I want to be. It seems to me there is a lot of programming involved with this system. I would not be able to use this system to its full extent.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
05-05-2020, 06:33 AM
#250
I am looking for a new radio. I have been out of the hobby for about 15 years and need a new radio. I was very interested in FrSky, but after scanning this thread I am a little put off. I am not a programmer nor do I want to be. It seems to me there is a lot of programming involved with this system. I would not be able to use this system to its full extent.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
Buying the lesser versions of the other brands can in some ways make getting set up to fly initially easier. But then you have limitations. One of my tests in judging: "Can I set up a switch to turn on dual rates just for the rudder?" It is surprising how far up the cost scale one has to move to be able to do that.....
Later edit: Not to sound like a sales pitch...but, even the least expensive Frsky radios have the same capabilities as the most expensive. The differences come down to: The case, the screen, modestly better gimbals, and the total number of switches on the TX. They ship with Frsky's own system "FRos", which appears to be their way to provide that "not be a programmer" operation that some want, but still retain many of the popular features of the full OpenTX system. But I am unfamiliar with it, so cannot otherwise render an opinion. It is very easy to replace one with the other, and back again, if one wants to explore either. (except that you can not move existing model setups between them).
Last edited by tedsander; 05-06-2020 at 05:04 AM.