maser

Larry,

I forgot to mention, that no adjustment needs to be made to the spars or ribs to set the 3 degree angle. The only reason I made new ribs was because I used Robart retracts.

Boyd.

lkahn4

Boyd,
You hve to be kidding, first I'm a UP guy. I have some PA's, switchers ans a few SD's I think. All ina storage closet, if the wife ever finds out it's somewhere between 7 and 8 thou I'm in BIG trouble. Everytime I start to think about doing a layout I think of the amount of space I will take away from my building room. We bought this condo 12 years ago, 3,200 SF and I built a 10' x 33' room just for the trains, but lo and behold the RC bug bit and they got put to the back burner. Wife had helped me build about 10 buildings in anticipation of starting the layout. The biggest curves I think I can get is 36" to 38" and I'm working on 2 Bascule bridges just in case I need to start laying track.
I knew we had more in common than just planes LOL.

Thanks again for all the info, it really helps

Larry

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Below is the link with the photos. I need photos to understand.

Thanks Maser and Dean RCU


http://www.vaillyaviation.com/images...ut%20_web_.pdf

maser

Here's the next round.

Picture 1: Place the rear W3 thru W6 in place. Place W4 thru W15 in Place. Rest the rear end of the ribs to the 1/4 " square stringer, pinning them on the 1/4" stringer, then glue them to the spare. Remember W3 is at an angle. Make a template to get the angle correct. I glued a triangular stock to both sides of W2 thru W6.

Picture 2: Glue the leading edge to W5 thru W16. Then eye in the front W4 thru W6 spares in place and glue to the spare. I place a piece of triangular stock to at least one side of W4 thru W6. Wait for W3 on the next step.

Picture 3 & 4: Sand the leading edge to it's proper form. Now place and glue W1. It is at the same angle as W3. Glue the trailing edge to W1 thru W16. Place and glue the internal tubing at this point. I also make shear webbing and attach it to the front of the spare from W6 to W16. Make sure the grain is running horizontally to the spare.

Picture 5: Glue W17 & W18 together at a right angle. Draw a center line across W17 & W18.

Picture 6 & 7: Now place the glued W17 & W18 on the table and glue to spar, using the plans to align them. Now glue W3 into place. I place a piece of triangular stock to at least one side ot W3. W3 will conform to the angle of W18

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Maser, what is your building surface? I noticed you are using "T"-pins and you have a very NICE large surface on which to build!

maser

More of same.

Picture 1 & 2: This shows the optical illusion of W17 & W18 when placed on top of the plans. Notice that the 1/4" dowel looks off center. However, when you place the angle of the other W18 in the center of the dowel it is alligned.

Picture3: Prior to this step make sure you have taken out all pins that held the spare in place out. Although it is hard to see, the 1st top sheeting is placed over the top of the wing overlaping 1/2 of the top of the spar, and glue into place. Put weights on top of the sheeting.

Picture4: I now place the 2nd top sheeting into place taking it to the leading edge of the wing and glue into place.

NOTE: I deliberately sheet it this way so that I leave the trailing part of the wing exposed so when I install the linkages to the flaps and ailerons I have access to making adjustments.

Picture 5: Place the angle supports to the CG block.

Picture 6: The completed 2/3rds top sheeting isshown. At this point you can take the wing off the board and do the other side because the sheeting will hold the washout in place.

maser

tailskid,

The brand name is called Nicore. It is an accoustical board used for sound deadening. It comes in 4x8 sheets. There is only one place here in Oklahoma City where I have been able to find it. Lowes or Home Depot don't carry it.It is well worth it's weight in gold.

maser.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Nicore eh? Never heard of that! What type of store did you find it and about what size/cost was it?

maser

Actually the name of the board is called Celotex. It is also used for insulation on buildings. Try a lumber store other than Lowes or Home Depot. I don't remember how much it cost. The board has lasted a long time. Plus when one side is used up flip it over and use the other side. I think it comes in 1/2" sheets. Its is not very expensive. I'm guessing $15.00 to $20.00 per sheet.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Great....thanks for the info....now off to find some

maser

By the way, I think it is 1/4'". Screw the Celotex on to your building board, otherwise is to flimsy to use by itself.

lkahn4

Hey Boyd,
Excellent work and photos not to mention the narrative, this will really be helpful when I finally start mine. I can't believe the progress you've made in such a short time, totally awesome. After reading the Vailley Link and your narrative I think I'm finally getting it...whew.. was a bit scared there for awhile.

Will let you know as soon as my retracts and kit arrive


Thanks again for all the help

Larry

maser

Larry,

Thanks for the compliment. I'm getting used to describing what I'm doing along with the photos. I'm trying to make this as simple as possible. I hope I'm not getting to verbose. Not sure how much detail to add. I'm assuming that the parties viewing this are not beginners. If you need to call me on the washout procedure let me know and I'll give you my number.

Boyd.

maser

Larry,

Be sure to send some photos of the retracts.

Boyd.

maser

I thought I would describe how I make sure the spar is straight when you do the other side of the wing.

Picture 1 : The opposite side of the wing is laid down over the plans. (In this case it shows the completed 2/3 of the top sheeted)

Picture 2, 3& 4: Shows that I place a couple of triangular squares on the back side of the spare as shown on the plans. I aligned this with the back side of the wing spar to make sure it is kept aligned with the rest of the wing.

maser

The aileron is straight forward. I'm showing the pics of the method I used to attach the aileron to the wing. I cut out the hinges as described on the plans. The only thing different was the aileron link connection and rod to attach the aileron to the wing.I made an entire rib out of the link connection and used a 3/32nd rod running through brass tubing.The reason I did it this way was to be able to remove the aileron for painting etc.then having the ability to re-attach the aileron to the wing.The in board rib, closets to the flap, is removable by screws to accomplish this.

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Hey Maser,

You are moving to fast for me to keep up. Maybe I should come over and help.

By the way, I am looking to raise money for a round motor.

lkahn4

Hey guys,
Boyd, looking really good. Had a monetary setback and am hoping to order the retracts this week and the kit next week... will keep you posted
keep up the excellent work, it gives me something to strive for


Larry

maser

Larry,

Depending on which cut kitter you got, the leading eadge of theflap is not wide enough to go from the top of the flap to the bottom. I will have to glue two pieces together in order to get the proper width. No biggy but just be aware. I was going to do an internal linkage system for the aileron, but am leary of internal linkages that are hard to get to once you finish the model. Please hurry up with your building so you can give me some ideas.I know one area I will need some suggestions on isthe sliding canopy. Deans RCU pictures are helpful, but would be nice to see the step by step prior to the finished product.I have been looking atyour Avenger site and trying to get some ideas fromthat. Hopeall is going well.

WARBIRDRCER,

You have gotten enough money from me already. Now I'm poor. Now I'll have to go the bank to get a loan. There is a saying, "poor folk have poor ways".

lkahn4

Warbird,
Check out dbalsa.com for canopy rails, they look like a winner. As fot the kit I'm getting ready to order it from Precision cut kits, I'm hoping to order the gear from Sierra today and the kit next week... if you need help with the canopy rails you should post the ? on the Avenger site as there are alot of people who have gotten that far. As for the Avenger work progresses slowly, we are still sanding and spot filling all the imperfections on the fuse and wings.. it really sucks when you have 2 guys working on a kit who both have a touch of OCD when it comes to these things LOL

Stay Warm
Larry

maser

Pic. 1, Shows cross section of flap. (Note: sheeting gos over LE of flap on top & bottom. Since the LE is not wide enough to go fromtop of flap to bottom, I chose to stop the sheeting at the back portion of the LE. Then contour as shown on plans.

Pic. 2, Show 1st step to build flap

Pic. 3, I elevated the bottom of the flap 1/8th inch so when I contour the bottom of the LE it would match the profile of the bottom portion of the flap.

Pic. 4, Shows the profile of LE and the TE attached.

Pic. 5 & 6, Shows slots to accomodate hinges.

Pic. 7 & 8, Shows flap linkage.

Pic. 9 &10, The trailing hinge points being glued to flap.

Pic. 11,12, 13 & 14, General configuration of hinge points attached to wing.

maser

Continuation of pics 13 & 14.

YAT-28E

I am watching with great enthusiasm as I have the plans, but need motivation

lkahn4

Hey Maser,
Great progress, am hoping to order the Sierra retracts within the next 2 weeks so I will have them when I finally order the kit. Right now I'm thinking about a short kit and will buy the sticks and sheeting as needed not the way I wanted to do this but it is what it is.
Just finished watching Dave Platts Building and finishing techniques series of 3 DVD's, all I can say is awesome. He certainly has a unique way of building, I was amazed how he did it on a sheet of 1/2" tempered glass as his building surface, I guess you need to be a master builder to do that, I can barely find the T-pins to hold everything together...

Keep up the good work
Larry

maser

Larry,

So it's worth the money to order his series?

Boyd