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Interesting too is that the author, or someone else, included prop/rpm data for an OS fs61 in the Saito 65 (updated) article.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-17-2019 at 07:43 AM.
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I am trying to combat that nasty crap we get by building a test cell in my shop. Should be great for tacking and performance checks I have three large fluorescent lights above the test cell for good lighting for good tacking information man I am so happy and anxious to get this done
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Actually Sceptreflight shows 12.7:1 for the early version 65, 10.5:1 for the next generation and 8.6:1 for the updated version. Perhaps the only change was the height of the humpty bump?
Interesting too is that the author, or someone else, included prop/rpm data for an OS fs61 in the Saito 65 (updated) article.
Interesting too is that the author, or someone else, included prop/rpm data for an OS fs61 in the Saito 65 (updated) article.
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Actually Sceptreflight shows 12.7:1 for the early version 65, 10.5:1 for the next generation and 8.6:1 for the updated version. Perhaps the only change was the height of the humpty bump?
Interesting too is that the author, or someone else, included prop/rpm data for an OS fs61 in the Saito 65 (updated) article.
Interesting too is that the author, or someone else, included prop/rpm data for an OS fs61 in the Saito 65 (updated) article.
I was hesitant to say that because the pages weren't dated unless I missed them.Some of those weren't very good reviewers. The 15.5 to one was in reference to the 80 only.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-17-2019 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Add content
As you noted, only one review was dated. I just figured Saito lowered compression with each release. I'm sure there were many complaints early on.
Yeah
I can see where the 80 would have that problem at 15-1
that high of compression the darn thing probably wouldn’t idle just like my 180hc
any way I will leave out the shim for now and see how it does. If it doesn’t work well I will put the shim back in.
I can see where the 80 would have that problem at 15-1
that high of compression the darn thing probably wouldn’t idle just like my 180hc
any way I will leave out the shim for now and see how it does. If it doesn’t work well I will put the shim back in.
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Very precise.
None were a problem, I never could understand that line of thinking. Extra nitro methane costs more than higher compression. The 80 runs beautifully on 5% but runs well on 10% if you avoid a lean setting. Oh well, all that matters is our individual choices.
The 1.30 has 12.8 to 1 compression.
I took Gary's sage advice and bought some Dubro 2-56 Swivel Ball Links for my throttle linkages. I had some Hobby-Lobby ones but few had the threaded hole anywhere near the center. These are perfectly centered.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-17-2019 at 05:31 PM.
Those Dubros are what I use in my gassers, the 4-40 size for control surfaces and 2-56 for throttle linkage.
2-56 control rods for control surfaces in my smaller planes get sullivan or dubro metal clevises. On those I use blue loctite instead of a jam nut to keep engine vibrations from ruining the threads and stripping out.
2-56 control rods for control surfaces in my smaller planes get sullivan or dubro metal clevises. On those I use blue loctite instead of a jam nut to keep engine vibrations from ruining the threads and stripping out.
Well I had a busy day Sunday cleaned up and put new bearings in three engines and freed up another.
I don’t know what y’all use for cleaning, I used a crockpot and antifreeze on a couple engines like Acdii said it took the black right off the gold night head but not the case, that’s ok I have a idea for this engine when I make sure it runs I will take a pic of it in the plane. Anyway the 100 is now dole looking and 80 is normal.
I don’t know what y’all use for cleaning, I used a crockpot and antifreeze on a couple engines like Acdii said it took the black right off the gold night head but not the case, that’s ok I have a idea for this engine when I make sure it runs I will take a pic of it in the plane. Anyway the 100 is now dole looking and 80 is normal.
Last edited by Captcrunch44; 11-18-2019 at 03:08 AM.
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Well I had a busy day Sunday cleaned up and put new bearings in three engines and freed up another.
I don’t know what y’all use for cleaning, I used a crockpot and antifreeze on a couple engines like Acdii said it took the black right off the gold night head but not the case, that’s ok I have a idea for this engine when I make sure it runs I will take a pic of it in the plane. Anyway the 100 is now dole looking and 80 is normal.
I don’t know what y’all use for cleaning, I used a crockpot and antifreeze on a couple engines like Acdii said it took the black right off the gold night head but not the case, that’s ok I have a idea for this engine when I make sure it runs I will take a pic of it in the plane. Anyway the 100 is now dole looking and 80 is normal.
Crunchy, I've had engines come out of crock dull looking too. Seems like if they're old dull looking engines to begin with the antifreeze does little to brighten them up.
I use the standard green antifreeze and set my crock for 170°f. After 24 hours all of the black burnt on castor comes off. The Golden Knight paint has not come off using this method.
I use the standard green antifreeze and set my crock for 170°f. After 24 hours all of the black burnt on castor comes off. The Golden Knight paint has not come off using this method.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-18-2019 at 03:56 AM.
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I'll get that for you in a while, I suppose they are bendable, I've managed to never bend them. The Super Tigre 4500 completely fills the space between the bolts. PSP offers notched bars for the Saito 125 for example, but you can't buy anything from their site right now. I notched my own.
also when you Overhaul the engine did you overhaul the carburetor also the gasket on the high-speed needle gets dried out and the low-speed needle and those two combined will give you fits if they have a been replaced in a while
Last edited by Captcrunch44; 11-18-2019 at 08:05 AM.