rsrguy3

I have a nib .25 eagle I'll let go of for the right price

Faux Fisherman

I had the Diablo a good flier as I recall until I snapped it into the runway trying to make it deadstick. What I miss is the OK Pilot kits.

hitec9

Makes me think about my Reno racer with my Rossi .21. I loved that plane

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

Couldn’t take looking at the box anymore.....starting my build on this gem! I have a full scale Super Christen Eagle I

52jaws

My Feedback: (65)

Great flier with a YS 140........ if you go four stroke.

Thomas Schmidt

Hello send me your answer to [email protected] thank you !!!!!

brn2fly

My Feedback: (190)

Anybody interested in a 50cc Bud Light Laser mostly untouched?

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...40#post3051917

rsrguy3

Anyone have a canopy section for a 25 size decathlon (yellow plastic with gray windshield sticker)

Drrmedina87

In the 1990s I purchased an E Z Zero .45. currently the model is still not finished. I had two sons 14 months apart and the plane was carefully stored. When they got a little older, I started back into the hobby. I was crushed to see that OK Models and the EZ line were gone. I wanted to purchase a P-51 Mustang. I remember I used to have an article from Chris Chianelli regarding the EZ Zero. I have searched and searched the interweb and have never been able to find the article. The last time I worked on the model was roughly 4 years ago. I was excited to finally break the model back out and continue to put it together. Unfortunately not 5 minutes into it, I was cutting a hard piece of plastic that covers the tail section. I was cutting away from myself, as you were supposed to, but when the exacto knife slipped off the piece of plastic I immediately retracted it quickly before it hit the table. I retracting it so quickly I ended up cutting my middle finger so badly that it took seven stitches. The cut was so deep I had to actually shaved the tendon. I was lucky I didn't cut the tendon all the way through. I hope to finally get it finished and put it in the air. I can guarantee you that it will be the one model that I will have the biggest pucker factor on maidening. These models seem to have a cult following. I saw a body only, from a wrecked EZ Zero, go for $850.00 on ebay.

Silkyslim

I myself have one that I got from a garage sale but it doesn't have the directions I was trying to find it online but I haven't had any luck I was wondering if you still had yours by chance

Drrmedina87

I thought originally you wanted somebody to talk out of it. I'll make you a deal. I will trade the directions for the airplane hahaha. Just kidding, I would be more than happy to help out a fellow modeler. I am currently in New York on vacation celebrating my wife's and I 22 anniversary. I'll be traveling home over the weekend and be home on August 30th. I have a doctor's appointment on that Monday. I unfortunately had a macular bleed. It requires me to have an injections into my eye. Provided I can see and I figure out how to scan the instruction manual to attach it to this thread, I'm not very computer savvy, I could get it to you by let's say Wednesday.

I have to warn you 90% of the instruction manual is in Japanese. It will show a picture of a step, have six or seven lines in Japanese and, then have five or six words in english. With today's technologies maybe there is a way to get the full translation.This is one of the reasons I never finished the model.

As I mentioned in a prior thread the late Chris Ceanlli wrote a full article on building, flying, and evaluating the model. It not only had better instructions, when he made the maiden flight he made a couple suggestions on adjusting the center of gravity and the throws on the elevator. One thing I do remember distinctly. There is a pair wooden dowels that go from the elevator to the servo. He said under no circumstances should you use those wooden dowels as they will swell or shrink depended on humidity and temperature. Therefore you would constantly have to trim the model for the conditions of the day your flying. He recommended getting a pair of carbon fiber tubes and the associated hardware as they will not bow or flex. Something I can recommend regarding building the elevators. The metal control rods and a 90° bend that you glue into the elevators needs to be very carefully done. The rod is as thick as balsa wood in the elevator. This leaves only the layer of foam and the mylar covering to support control of the elevator. It is a really bad design. There is very little balsa wood to metal contact in the elevator itself. I think if you build it per instructions, the model may experience control flutter. If that happens obviously you'll lose control of the model and it will crash. I have already finished this part. It is the second reason I haven't completed the model. I can feel play between the two elevators already. I can flex one up while flexing the other one down. This is a recipe for disaster. I have been thinking for years about how I am going to fix this problem. I think I'm going to have to carefully peel off the painted mylar and foam from the skimpy piece of balsa that was designed to support the elevator. Remake the elevator and use much stronger plywood, glue the foam and mylar covering to the plywood. Then drill the hole for the 90° turn in the metal rod and that should solve the flexing problem.

I think we should start a new thread. We could find what's out there. I would love to get my hands on a Mustang. I would even like to get my hands on a second Zero. Heaven forbid I accidentally wreck the one I have. Like I said I'm not looking forward to the pucker factor that I'll have on her maiden flight. Will be in touch soon.

PS I use the speech to text feature on my phone. I can't stand typing on those little letters. Please forgive any grammar messes I may have missed.

Drrmedina87

I am sorry I forgot to get this done. I'll work on it later today.

Drrmedina87

HOBBY SHACK

E-Z by CHRIS CHIANELU


H obby shack’s* new addition

to their Warbird series is the Mitsubishi
Zero, the fighter that dominated the
Pacific skies in the early stages of World War
II. The Hobby Shack version most closely
resembles an A6M2 of the 402nd Chutai,

341st Kokutai, Clark Field, Manila, winter of
1944.

The Zero, in terms of finish and weathering
refinements, is the best EZ Warbird yet. The
Mustang and FW 190 were good, but the Zero
is simple; unlike the Mustang which was a bit
overdone. As with the other EZ Warbird, all plastic
parts must be sprayed with a matte clear or scuffed
with 000 steel wool if you don’t want glossy panels
on your fighter. (With those the enemy would spot
you at 10 miles!) I coated all the plastic parts with
Black Baron flat clear as I did on the FW 190.
Incidentally, the stuff has never peeled off.

Following the design approach of all other EZ
kits, the Zero’s structure is a three-layer skin (foam-
board sheet covered with color scheme layer


covered with Mylar) stretched over an inner
skeleton of balsa and plywood.

Because these kits are carefully packaged, parts
never arrive damaged. Everything is provided
except the radio and engine. All parts are bagged
and most are of very high quality like the spinner,
wheels and tank. Notice I said “most.”
Unfortunately, the plastic clevises are poor, and I
suggest you throw them out. Not only are they
brittle, cracking easily in cold weather, but there’s


62





ng, Easy-Building Add Up To ZERO.



too much flash left from the molding process so
that some of the clevises would not snap closed.
I’ve noticed a decline in the quality of this
particular piece of hardware in the past few EZs
I’ve bought. Other than this, the quality of the
parts has been maintained and, in some cases,
improved.

CONSTRUCTION: Assembly can be
completed in three or four evenings. One area in
which the Zero has been improved is the fit of the


plastic parts such as the large, attractive wing
fillets and tailcone parts that fit perfectly. This was
most apparent in the tailcone, which has four main
parts, giving the sharp, sleek tailcone which Zeros
are known for with a minimum of work, while
also hiding the tail-wheel steering mechanism.

I deviated from the instructions in the elevator
Y pushrod installation, and the steel wing hold-
down bolts (which I replaced with nylon items).

It’s so much easier to get the Y elevator pushrod











in place and through both
exits before the stab is glued
in place. The illustrated
method is difficult even when
using the provided snaking
device. Another point I’ll
continue to emphasize is
don V use the steel wing bolt
Simply knock out the pre-
installed blind nuts and tap
the existing hole with a '/4-20
tap. The hole is just the right
size.

One word of caution: the
wing hold-down plate is
plywood, and this isn’t good
for long-term maintenance of
threads. The solution is to
thread the hole, coat the
threaded hole with medium-
viscosity cyanoacrylate, and
re-thread. Threads cut in
cyanoacrylate are strip-proof.

Apart from these two
points, you can follow the
instruction book, which has
about 65 photos and
diagrams.

The finished Zero, powered by a Saito .80, weighed 6
pounds, 6 ounces and balanced perfectly with battery and
receiver placed under the forward section of the canopy. This
is my second Saito .80 and both are among the most
powerful 4-strokes in their class. The remarkable thing is
that idle and handling characteristics are not sacrificed My
other Saito .80 is in one of my seaplanes and I rarely need to
retrieve the plane because of a flame-out.

PERFORMANCE: On the day of the test flight the wind
was extremely strong, and blowing across the runway at that!
It was so cold that I decided to forego any engine break-in
and fly the Zero since the Saito ran so well on the first start.
However, the fantastic idle I had with my other one was a bit
elusive since the engine is brand new. I’ve every confidence it
will eventually match my broken-in example, with further
running in.

Nick “Giant Scale” Ziroli let the model go, cross wind,
and the plane was airborne in approximately 15 feet, vaning
immediately into the wind. As a result of the solid roll axis
control, the model was easily controlled and the cross wind
was never allowed to get under a wing. Remember to heed
the recommended control throws on the ailerons and elevator.


I went a little extra and
found that the model was
sensitive in both roll and
pitch; a switch to low-rate
yielded a far smoother flight.
I gave the transmitter to Nick
and the motor went dead.
With the amazing instinctive
precognition of a true R/C
Squirrel, Nick was later able
to make a most gentle
three-pointer, attesting to the
slow-flight characteristics of
the Zero. Next in line was our
executive editor, Rich “King
Ura of Jetdom” Uravitch,
who proceeded to put the
Zero through the usual paces
of rolls, split S’s and high-
speed low passes. He was
most impressed, not only
with the airframe but also
with the pulling power of the
under- propped (1 1x7.5)
Saito. When it was time for
King Ura to land, the wind
had died down. Since old
dogs don’t easily leam new
tricks or adapt to changing temperature or wind condition, he
greased the Zero in, thinking he still had a head wind. The
model rolled off the end of the runway! When the plane hit
the grass the tail was already down so the speed wasn’t that
great. Nevertheless both main gears broke out of wing. This
seems to be one of the weak spots of the Warbird line, as the
same thing happened to my FW-190. We’d like to see the
manufacturer beef things up in this area.
Other than that, we had no problems with the Zero and it
can only be described as a pleasure to fly; a ship any
intermediate pilot can handle. Remember, ours is a
preproduction prototype so the weak gear problem may no
longer be a problem. During hangar flying, after this session,
we all agreed that we’d like Hobby Shack to expand their
Pacific Theater series. Maybe a Hellcat, Corsair or P-40, but
we’ll pass on the Brewster Buffalo*.

*The following is the address of Hobby Shack, the mail-order
distributor featured in this article
Hobby Shack, 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley

CA 92728.



(A MODEL AIRPIANE NEWS

Silkyslim

So this would be my first Balsa build I usually come from foamies and I happen to get this one in a garage sale but I am completely lost without the instruction booklet I just have no clue where all the wooden Parts go that come in the bags and without any pictures I have no reference do you still have your instruction booklet and would it be possible to get it scanned so I can begin my build? Let me know if we can make this work! Thankyou for your help

Silkyslim

I check this one out that a yard sale also does anyone know anything about it

danparm302

I managed to find the instructions for building the EZ Chippy. I have one new in box that I’ll now be getting started on. For the future modelers that might build one and are unlucky not to have them I will digitize mine. I had zero luck finding them online.

Luckily my dad had put them in a safe place from when he won the Chippy in a raffle 25+ years ago. Just took a little searching in the basement to find them.